October 2005

By ChaplainDick –


Parts needed:
  • Harley-Davidson Engine Guard (Model # 49016 Series or equivalent - from E-Bay)
  • Web link -

  • 1/8 inch steel flat stock for Engine Guard Upper Mounting Bracket
  • 1/4 inch steel flat stock for Engine Guard “Customized Lower mounts”
  • 1/4inch x 1 inch steel flat stock for Lower Braces
  • 3/8 inch x 1 inch steel flat stock for Lower Brace     
  • 3/4 or 7/8 inch OD steel tubing for Lower Braces
  • 2 - 3/8 X 16 X 1-1/2” SS Socket Cap Screws           
  • 2 - 3/8 inch X 16 SS Nuts
  • 2 - 3/8 inch SS Washers
  • 2 - 8mm X 30mm Hex Head SS Bolts
  • 2 - 8mm SS Washers
  • 2 - 6mm X 25mm Socket Cap Screws
  • 2 - 6mm washers
  • A helpful welder!



What I started with:

This picture was captioned “49016_00” at this web link - I believe it is the same one I got off E-bay

Important Note:

 The following describes how I modified a HD Engine Guard (49016 Series) to fit on my 2002 V-Star 650 Custom with Ziv’s Forward Control Extensions. There is no full sized aftermarket engine guard available that will fit a V-Star 650 with forward Control Extensions.

 I have the Yamaha Passing Lamps with the stock Front Turn Signals mounted below the Passing Lamps and had to relocate the Front Turn Signals back to their stock location as they hung down too far and interfered with fully turning the front forks.

 Getting Ready:

 If at all possible, purchase a used HD Engine Guard, Part Number 49016 or equivalent, off E-Bay. Dealer cost new is about $150 and, unless you are able to do the fabrication and welding yourself, it will probably cost about $200 +/- if you use a really friendly welder (figuring a $40 /hour rate).

Trace patterns for the Upper and Lower Mounting brackets from the .pdf file labeled EngineGuard1 onto heavy cardboard and cut out for welder to use as cutting patterns.

Trace the “Pattern for Locating RIGHT and LEFT Lower Mounting Brackets” from the .pdf file labeled EngineGuard3 onto 1/4 inch Plywood or use Tempered Masonite. The welder will need this pattern for locating the Lower Mounting Brackets onto the Engine Guard. The Engine Guard should be laid flat with the lower “legs” of the guard facing up - please refer to mock up picture #2.

 Patterns for the RIGHT and LEFT side Lower Braces are in the .pdf file labeled EngineGuard2 and can be used, as is, for fabrication of the braces.

 Modifying the Engine Guard:

 Take the outside-to-outside measurement of the stock lower mounting brackets and determine how much each “leg” of the Guard needs to be cut back so that the finished spacing, with the new 1/4 thick lower Mounting Bracket attached, will be 12 and 1/8 inches (outside edge to outside edge). Cut off the stock Mounting Brackets and the appropriate amount of each “Leg” as determined.

NOTE: The Engine Guard tube stock is very hard and it will take a number of hacksaw blades to make the cuts. It is important to take your time as you need to maintain the angle of the new cut relative to the factory cut.

 Fabricate the Lower Mounting Brackets from 1/4 inch steel flat stock using the pattern from the .pdf file labeled EngineGuard1. DO NOT Drill any holes in these brackets at this time. Using the “Pattern for Locating the Right and Left Lower Mounting Brackets” from the .pdf file labeled EngineGuard3, tack weld each new Lower Mounting Bracket in place.

 NOTE: the Lower Brackets will actually be a bit lower than the “Pattern” shows based on the amount that each “leg” was cut back to meet the new width requirements.  The “Pattern’s” main purpose is to aid in getting the orientation of the Lower Mounting Brackets correct.

 Fabricate the Upper Mounting Bracket from a piece of 1/8 inch steel flat stock using the pattern from the .pdf file labeled EngineGuard1. NOTE: this bracket needs to be “kicked” about 1/8 inch, forward, so that it will fit flat up against the frame when installed. The “kick” should begin on a line approximately level with the top of the stock Mounting Bracket. Tack weld the new Mounting Bracket to the Stock Bracket after removing the nut on the Stock Bracket. Refer to picture # 1.

 Trial fit the Engine Guard to make certain Mounting Bracket locations are correct, and if all is okay, permanently weld the new Upper and Lower Mounting Brackets to the Engine Guard

Picture # 1 - Mocked up Engine Guard with Upper and Lower Mounting Brackets

Picture # 2 - Lower Mounting Brackets – note orientation of new Mounting Brackets. Picture shows the Engine Guard lying flat with the “Legs” of the Engine Guard facing up

Picture # 3 - Right and Left Lower Braces mocked up

Fabricate the Lower Braces using the full size patterns as layout guides. These patterns are in a .pdf file labeled EngineGuard2. Note that the braces are not identical as the Right side brace needs to allow room for the rear brake light switch. Cut the tubing to the length/angle shown for each brace and weld them to the indicated steel flat stock. DO NOT DRILL any holes at this time. Refer to pictures #9, 10, and 11 to see the finished braces installed.

Picture # 4 - Mocked up Guard fitted to bike – Note that Turn Signals mounted to Passing Lamp Light Bar will hang too low and will hit the top of the Engine Guard when the forks are turned

 Picture # 6 - Left side – note that the Engine Guard needs to be widened at the lower mounts to 12 and 1/8 inches (outside-to-outside) to properly fit between Ziv’s Extension Brackets. The bar needs to be cut back evenly on both sides to attain the proper width.

Picture # 7 - Close up of the RIGHT side mocked up Lower Mounting Bracket – notice the positioning of the stock HD mounting bracket relative to what will be the new Mounting Bracket

Picture # 8 - Side view of mocked up Engine Guard in place. Final front-to-back positioning will vary based on amount of bar removed to achieve 12 and 1/8 inches of width for Mounting Brackets

Installation of Engine Guard:

 Remove the Lower Mounting Bolts from the FootRest Mounting Brackets.

 Test fit the modified Engine Guard to the bike. I used a long piece of vinyl coated 12 gauge wire looped over the top of Triple Tree and made a wrap around the top of the Engine Guard on each side of the upper mount.  Adjust the height of the Guard as close as possible.

 Use clamps to hold the Lower Mounting Brackets in place in order to be able to mark the location for drilling bolt holes. Insert a pencil through the lower bolt hole to mark the bolt hole location to drill in the new Lower mounting Brackets. Only do the lower brackets at this time.

 Refer to Pictures #9, 10, and 11 to orient the lower guard to Ziv’s extension bracket. Make sure that the location of the bolt holes in the lower Mounting Brackets, on each side, are the same. You should center the hole front to back on the bracket and just high enough to make certain that the top of the engine guard will clear the low point of the extension bracket.

 Remove the guard and drill 3/8 inch holes in the lower mounting brackets. Use successively larger drill bits until you have drilled the final hole size. Take your time drilling as the drill bit will tend to snag as you move to larger sizes. It’s helpful to have someone to help hold the guard while drilling.

 Use some colored chalk to rub onto the heads of the bolts holding the Neck Fairings in place.

 Reinstall the engine guard using the 3/8x16x1-1/2 Socket Cap Screws in the lower bolt location of the FootRest bracket. Tap the upper mounting bracket against the head of the Neck Fairing Bolts to mark their location. Remove the bar. Make sure the hole locations in the Upper Mounting Bracket are equal side-to-side and drill the holes for the 6mm Socket Cap Screws – drill slightly oversized holes to allow for aligning the bolts in the frame holes.

 Reinstall the Engine Guard but do not tighten fasteners.

 Leave the engine guard in place while you mark the location of the bolt holes in the lower braces.

 Remove the lower bolt from the lower engine mount on each side and thread each bolt in backwards so that the end of the bolt just slightly protrudes past the outside edge of the lower engine mount. Rub colored chalk on the ends of the bolts.

 Back out the lower bolt on Ziv’s extension bracket, on each side, until the end of the bolt is just slightly protruding past the inside edge of the engine guard mounting bracket. Rub colored chalk on the end of each bolt.

 Take the Right and Left Lower Mounting Braces and carefully fit them in place so as to transfer the colored chalk from the bolt end onto the face of the mounting bracket of each brace. Drill slightly larger holes in each bracket to allow for some alignment adjustment. Be certain the holes are centered, top to bottom, on the mounting bracket. The front hole will be slightly larger than 3/8’s” and the rear hole will be slightly larger than 8mm.

 Make a final test fit of all components. Bolt up the lower bolts on Ziv’s extension brackets and insert the 8mm x 30mm hex head bolts with a washer in the lower engine mounting bracket holes to secure the rear of the braces. Use 6mm x 25mm socket cap screws with 6mm washers to fasten the upper mounting bracket into the Neck Fairing bolt holes.

 Now, you need to determine whether you want to have the Guard re-chromed, at this time, or to paint the new mounting brackets and braces. On my engine guard, there was so little burn mark on the chrome tube that I decided to mask off the bar and prime and spray paint the mounts a gloss black. I also spray painted the braces with a gloss black.

Once the Guard is either re-chromed or the Mounting Brackets painted, and the Lower Braces painted, reinstall the Engine Guard and Lower Braces.


Picture # 9 – Orientation of Lower Mounts and Left Side Lower Mount Brace

Picture # 10 – Another view of the left side

 Picture # 11 – Orientation view of Right Side Lower Mount Bracket and Brace

 Picture # 11 – Orientation view of Right Side Lower Mount Bracket and Brace

Picture # 13 – Another view

Picture # 14 – Relocated Stock Turn Signals and view of Upper Mounting Bracket

Picture #14a – Close up view of Modification to Harley Top Bracket to utilize Front Neck Cover Bolts

Picture #14b – A side view of the modified Top Mounting Bracket

Picture #14c – close up of Modified Front Bracket showing HD mounting tab welded to new Top Mounting Bracket. Neck Cover bolts are used to fasten the Mounting Bracket to the bike.

Picture # 15 – Another view - plenty of wheel clearance


Picture # 16 – Turn Signals now clear the top of the Engine Guard. How about HD Engine Guard mounted Fog Lamps???

Picture #17 – 20 watt Halogen Spot Lights from JC Whitney attached to Engine Guard using Kuryakyn 1-1/4 inch “P” clamps and wired through a handle bar toggle switch.

Picture #18 – View of Brake Foot Rest Assembly and Ziv’s Extension Brackets showing how everything lines up. 

Picture #19 – View of the Shifter side showing Ziv’s Extension Brackets and Shifter Foot Rest assembly

Picture #20 – Showing detail of Ziv’s Extension Brackets and the location of the Modified Engine Guard lower mounting bracket and its lower support brace

Picture #21 – Another front-on view from the Brake side

Picture #22 – Showing the detail of Ziv’s Extension Bracket on the left side and the Modified Engine Guard Lower Mount and its support bracing

Picture #23 – Showing close up detail of Ziv’s Extension Bracket, modified Engine Guard mount and its lower support bracing  and the Shifter Foot Rest assembly

Picture 24 – “Bird’s Eye” view of the brake side showing detail of brake light switch and brake rod mounting.

Picture #24a – A close up view of the Brake side spring connections

Picture #24b – View of Brake Light Switch

Picture #24c – Another view of the brake light switch as well as lower engine guard mount and lower support brace.

Picture #25 – “Bird’s Eye” view of the shifter side set up. Note: the shift rod needed to be bent to clear the lower mounting bolt, sidestand mount and the frame

Picture #26 – Shows how I had to bend the Shifter rod using Ziv’s Extension Brackets and Classic FootRests on a 650 Custom

Picture #27 – Showing bend in the forward end of the Shift Rod to clear the Bottom Mount od Ziv’s Extension Bracket

Picture #28 – Another view of the Shifter Rod bent to clear all obstructions

Picture #28 – Another view

Picture #29 – Another view